Photographs Courtesy Helmut Lang
Tailored blazers, rust-colored shearling and a variety of outerwear define Helmut Lang’s Fall 2022 collection, debuted during this season’s New York Fashion Week. Founded in 1986, the Helmut Lang brand is one known for subversive minimalism: precise silhouettes with a hint of something edgier bubbling under the surface.
This newest assortment of designs is rational in its beauty and beautiful in its rationality. The Fall 2022 collection features tailored trousers and utilitarian jackets, two iconic, signature Helmut Lang designs. Peeks of elastic trouser waistbands that are decorated with the brand’s logo provide an alluring twist to a standard suit. Subtle waist cutouts and oversized shoulders do the same for its blazers. The collection also includes boxy utility parkas, shearling coats and leather moto jackets—all of the autumn staples. The pieces are wearable and sensible, but somehow provocative and sensual at the same time.
The collection also highlights a more tender side of Helmut Lang, still with its classic utilitarian touch. In complementary contrast, the brand pairs a sheer blouse with structured trousers here, a soft maxi dress with leather pants there. And, while most of the collection is in obvious neutral tones like black, brown and olive, there are periodic, gentle pops of muted lavenders and champagnes, presented on silk blouses and long, slinky dresses. A coppery shearling, perfect for the season, is also repeated throughout, most notably in a fur coat that is surprisingly glamorous. Helmut Lang may be most well-known for its suits and sharp lines, but with this season, the brand continues to prove its ability to also create pieces that are, simply put, pretty.
Though Helmut Lang himself is no longer connected to his namesake label, the brand continues his legacy, creating sleek, timeless designs that remain ever relevant yet effortlessly unique. As always, Helmut Lang provides a modern, business-ready uniform for the grown-up “cool kid.”