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NYFW: Who Decides War

Photographs Courtesy of Who Decides War

Celebrated for their denim, which is hand-crafted from a mixture of deadstock and pure cotton, then meticulously embellished with a variety of embroidery and patchwork, Everard Best, founder of Who Decides War, designs each and every one of his pieces with great intention. His Fall/Winter 2022 collection titled “Witness,” one that honors those he holds dear, but have passed, is no exception.

To set the stage, Best chose to showcase his collection in a church-like setting. A dimly lit room filled with taper candles, crosses, and a bounty of flowers, all arranged like funeral bouquets is the backdrop of his collection, and doubles as an atmosphere conducive for grieving.

Best continued to execute this religious concept with the symbolism found on his pieces. Decorated on a denim, patchwork puffer jacket is the striking image of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, a notable Catholic symbol for intense, undying love and sorrow–both of which characterize the painful process of grieving. Embroidered onto a variety of pieces are illustrations of colorful stained glass windows, akin to those found in the grand Catholic Cathedrals.

One of the more notable pieces of his collection comes in the form of a dual, matching set. To showcase these, two models donning contrasting black and white suits walked down the aisle, each adorned with white, feathered wings, but placed on opposing sides. It is together that they make one full wingspan, akin to that of an angel’s. The strong angel imagery found throughout “Witness,” is Best’s way of paying homage to the final Louis Vuitton show of the late Virgil Abloh. It is through this creation of intricate pieces embellished with heavy Catholic symbolism that Best honors the late “angels” of the fashion community.

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