Photographs by David Smith
Through blue hazy lighting set against an ambient backtrack of bird calls and cricket chirps emerges Private Policy’s F/W 2022 Collection. Founders SiYing Qu and Haoran Li solidified their slogan, “Make Your Own Rules” with transformative new textures and textile cutouts.
The opening look features a muted army green ensemble made up of a glossy nylon utility vest with large pocket details, layered on top of a simple t-shirt, and sleek trousers of the same material. Throughout the piece, shiny silver zippers are incorporated which conjures up an industrial element, a theme of the Private Policy’s latest collection. Nestled in the model’s hair is an array of large silver hair clips, creating the illusion of a singular metal headpiece and giving the look a futuristic touch. The following pieces follow a similar motif of simple muted colors on atypical cutouts and unique fabric layering that create sleek and modern, yet an experimental overtone to the collection. Some standout features include a gray hyper cropped bra top with one long billowy sleeve, creating asymmetry.
As the music ramps up, the collection transitions from darker greens and grays to lighter tans and whites, sticking to the neutral color palette of the collection whilst still offering variety. One of the key features in this collection is the meticulous attention to detail of each piece. A seemingly unassuming long sleeved button up shirt is adorned with a short sleeve layer on top as well as straps and pockets on the arms. The same technique of different layers of fabric, pockets, and zippers are incorporated on nearly every piece, accessorizing and reinventing your typical trousers or jacket. Without sacrificing its unique style, Private Policy’s collection also presents an element of comfort. Soft, oversized coats, puffer jackets, and baggy pants do not sacrifice the unique designs of SiYing Qu and Haoran Li, demonstrating that we don’t need to choose between comfort or style for the fall and winter season.
Out of the blue, two dancers burst into modern contemporary dance with fluid yet sharp and dynamic movements, perfectly representing their pieces in the form of choreography. With sheer white tops scrunched by strings on the sides, and heavily pocketed cargo pants, the two models dance their way around the runway, a contrast to the sharp walks of the previous models.The show closes with a set of muted lavender looks that follow the theme and style of the collection.
Private Policy’s transformative and unique approach to fabric layering and cutouts presents a rebellious and de-contracted take on modern basics that tie in perfectly with the brand’s message of uniting different views and perspectives. Private Policy’s F/W 2022 Collection undoubtedly made their own rules.